Chunky soles, split toes, foam clogs, and wooden mules — 2026’s fashion conversation keeps circling back to the same divisive question: are “ugly shoes” genuinely cool, or have we all just agreed to pretend they are? The honest answer, according to stylists and trend forecasters right now, is: it depends which “ugly shoe” you’re talking about.
What Counts as an “Ugly Shoe” in 2026
The category is broader than it sounds, covering several distinct trends that all share one trait — they prioritize an unconventional, deliberately unpolished look over classic prettiness:
- Chunky/dad sneakers — oversized, exaggerated midsoles, popularized by Balenciaga’s Triple S and adopted by everyone from Adidas to Alexander McQueen
- Wooden clog sandals — a Y2K-era revival, featuring platform soles, block heels, and heavy stud detailing
- Split-toe silhouettes — like the Margiela Tabi, which divides opinion by design
- Foam clogs — the Crocs-style category that’s become a genuine style statement rather than just garden footwear
- Wedge sneakers — Isabel Marant’s Bekett popularized this hybrid silhouette, still stirring reactions over a decade later
The Case for “Cool”
The pro-ugly-shoe argument isn’t really about ignoring aesthetics — it’s about what the shoe signals. Fashion insiders who champion these styles often point out that a deliberately unconventional shoe reads as more fashion-literate than a “safe” choice, precisely because it takes confidence to wear something polarizing. There’s also a heritage-credibility factor at play: stylists note that a chunky sneaker from a brand with genuine running or performance pedigree — like New Balance or HOKA — reads as intentional, while a similar-looking shoe from a brand chasing the trend without that backstory tends to look like a costume rather than a statement.
The trend’s staying power also owes a lot to high fashion’s continued involvement. Luxury houses including Valentino, Louis Vuitton, and Alexander McQueen have all kept chunky, exaggerated-sole sneakers in steady rotation, lending the look a level of credibility that keeps it from reading as purely a passing fad.
The Case for “Gross” — Or at Least, “Over It”
At the same time, a meaningful chunk of current fashion commentary is actively steering people away from the ultra-chunky look for 2026, arguing the trend has run its course. Stylists point to a broader shift toward refined minimalism — sleeker leather sandals, low-profile sneakers, and elongated silhouettes — as the more current direction, with the oversized, heavy dad-sneaker look increasingly described as visually overwhelming rather than fresh.
Part of the pushback is practical, too. Chunky soles, however striking, aren’t necessarily built for comfort over a long day on your feet, and stylists have pointed to slimmer alternatives — think Adidas Sambas or Puma Speedcats — as offering a similar retro-casual feel with less bulk.
The Real 2026 Story: Maturity, Not Death
Rather than a clean “in” or “out” verdict, what’s actually happening looks more like an evolution. Retail and style analysts tracking the category note that the chunky sneaker trend has “matured” — the exaggerated, shock-value silhouette that defined its 2018–2019 peak has settled into something more deliberate, where a substantial sole is now paired with a calmer, more streamlined outfit rather than styled for maximum visual noise. In that framing, the shoe still does the talking, but the rest of the look has toned down around it.
How to Wear “Ugly Shoes” Without It Looking Like a Costume
- Let the shoe be the statement — pair a bold, chunky, or unconventional shoe with otherwise minimal, streamlined clothing rather than competing prints or silhouettes
- Prioritize brands with real design credibility — a heritage performance shoe tends to age better in your wardrobe than a fast-fashion version chasing the same look
- Know which sub-trend you’re committing to — a foam clog and a split-toe Tabi send very different signals, even though both fall under the “ugly shoe” umbrella
- Consider the occasion — the boldest versions of this trend work best in casual, everyday contexts rather than formal settings
Final Thoughts
So — cool or gross? Honestly, both camps have a point, and that tension is exactly why “ugly shoes” keep dominating fashion conversation year after year. The bulkiest, most maximalist chunky sneakers may be losing some momentum heading into 2026, but the broader appetite for deliberately unconventional footwear — clogs, split toes, foam silhouettes — shows no sign of disappearing. If anything, the trend has simply gotten smarter about styling itself, trading shock value for a more confident, intentional kind of ugly.
